As you will remember, the big problem was how in the Babylon were we going to decorate with the consarned colors in this painting.  After much deliberation, a design was created where there would be a color around the painting, with a wainscot raised paneling underneath it.  After splotching around the painting several different colors, we noticed how green brought out the green in the painting, which then rather subdued the purples.  It also caused the frame to pop off the wall.  So then we had to decide on which shade of green.  You will notice two small squares, one on each side of the painting.  That was the color I wanted.  The problem was, Darlene could not remember how she got that color with her tints, and Lowe's did NOT match it as they should have.  So, then it was off to experimenting for days on end with her tints to try and get what we bought right.  That became impossible for some reason.  So, I just put this green up.  We may try again after we recover from the first attempt This picture and the next one to the right have been added since this page was originally published.  It shows the beginning of the wainscot raised paneling.  There is much more to do to it, as much molding must be created and added.  The top board will be covered with a crown molding.

Then, a color will have to be decided upon.  It will be somewhere between white, and the greeny gold that is on the wall with the drapes.  Probably a lot closer to the gold than to a pure white.


I have not been satisfied with the green behind the picture, so we are back to experimenting some more to come up with the right color that will blend better with the green in the drapes. Here you will see the drapes in their final form, with gold shears.  I have also repainted the wall with a color that is a bit darker than the original.  I keep trying to get the light right for the picture so the color will come through as it is seen in person, but so far, I have not been able to do so.  It is much better than what these pictures show.  You might be able to tell the difference in the original color, and what is now on the wall.  The new color is up where you see the drapes and gold shears in place, and the old color where the drapes were not finished.     It will be rather hard to really see this properly, as all of the tools are cluttering up the scene.  You will have to use your imagination some.

I would also like to mention that the paint colors are not coming through as true as I would have liked for them to.  The color behind the drapes is a wonderful blend with the drapes, and really does do well in setting them off.  I just did not have the correct lighting, and did not want to take the time to get it right.

In decorating, the wall colors and carpet are nothing more than "backdrops" for everything else that will go in the room.  They are not main features, but used only to set off the furniture, table top items, pictures, accessories, etc.

Wherever you see white on the walls, that is where woodwork will go, and be painted the same color as what the posts will be.  All of which will NOT be a stark white as seen on the front door, but a toned down color to almost white, which will be toned with the color on the drapery walls.

The wall behind the draperies is what one might call gold, and another yellow, but it has a strong hint of green in it, which sets off the draperies really good.  The whole thing looks much better in person.  I am rather disappointed that the pictures are not showing it all as good as it really looks, but you will get the idea anyway.

While in the stages of wondering what  colors to use where, Darlene brought me a J. C. Penney catalogue to show me some draperies.  When I saw the ones she liked, I immediately thought, "Wow, that is our color scheme", and we went from there.

  The drapery colors bring balance to the painting, and causes it to not be such a stand out item.  Now things begin to flow into a decorator theme.       In these pictures, the wine red seems to be the dominate color, overriding the other colors.  This is not so in person, as there is more of a blend to the stripes.     This close-up of the scarf gives a better idea of the colors in the draperies.  As you can now see, there is a gold thread design in the red stripe, and this when viewing in person, tones down the red.  In the pictures to the left, the lights I used caused the red to reflect more of that light than the other colors, and therefore appears to be more dominate than what it is.


You should notice in viewing these pictures how much more definition there is to the panels with the molding added to each side of every panel.  There is also a prototype of the pilaster (simulated post), for which the final design has not yet been decided upon.  However, it will be made congruous with the large posts, even as it already shows.       These next two pictures are low light night pictures.  Lighting is an important feature to decorating, and I am constantly experimenting to arrive at the desired affect.  I had originally thought that I would have to install either track or can lights, but I do not think that expense will be necessary.  Rope and puck lights, plus the Rock Salt Lamps, may give the desired result all by themselves.  
This is a close up of a panel without the added molding. First, a side view that shows the top molding (two piece) which blends into the shelf just above it, and just below the picture. In these close-ups, you can get a better idea of how much definition the molding gives to each panel. The top of the base board is of the same design as the bordering molding.   This side view gives a better view of the top molding, which will be somewhat repeated in the crown molding above the picture.   This is a close-up of the top molding.  It is made up of two different pieces, which blends into the edge of the shelf which is just below the picture. The making of these pieces of molding is something else.  Especially for this amateur.  If you look real close, you will see there is a miter ridge that runs from the panel to the corner.  Therefore, every piece of molding must line up with that miter, or it will look awful.  This is not small task, believe me.  Then the groves in the actual molding must line up where at the angle where each piece meets the other.  This is so with both sides, as both sides meet with another.  Trying to get everything to match perfectly can drive you nuts.  I had a time where I kept making mistakes, and had to walk away from it for a day.         This is a close up of the molding.  As you can see, there is a flat area on the top which is designed to overlap the stiles.  This width MUST BE EXACTLY THE SAME on every piece.   The next picture shows the notch that is on the back of each piece so that it will overlap the stiles (bordering boards).

And, think of this.  There are 5 panels, each with four sides, meaning I had to make 20 of these pieces of molding which had to be perfect.  Some are not in absolute perfection, but they are close enough that a little filling work will hide whatever mistake I have made.

Here you can see the notch that must be made so that it will overlap, and that notch must also be exactly the same on every piece, or the pieces will not match up in the forty five degree angle where they meet.. Now that I have shown you how each must be made, I once again show some in place, and you can now tell how the wide flat area is overlapping the stile. Here again is a panel without the molding to show the comparison.




Darlene and Pamela painting on the walls.  Darlene is continuing to experiment with the green. Pamela, Darlene's cousin whom we consider more like a daughter, painted the family room walls with the same gold that is on the drapery wall.  Darlene went up to Redding for a family get together, and Pamela came back with her.  Boy, was she ever a great help to us. Darlene is shown ironing out the drapery.  She has done a ton of work on this place. This is some old man who is trying to figure out what he is doing.


It will probably become quite obvious to people that I am one of those sons of Joseph that like many colors.  This fact may drive Darlene over the edge. As I looked over the room after getting the drapes up, I got the wonderful idea that maybe a matching red from the drapery could be used on the walls in the dining room.  So, I bought a cheap can of paint that was close to the color, messed with Darlene's tints for a while, and came up with a red that I really liked.  Then I painted the walls where paint would go, leaving where wood work will go, left white.  There will be a matching raised panel wainscot like under the painting, plus "pilasters" (simulated posts) at the corners where the walls meet the large room, and of course, crown molding with some kind of molding around the window. I also decided to hang the mirror that I have had for ten years, to see what it would look like in the room.  While in the midst of getting it up there, I discovered that I went in too big of a hurry, and somehow put the hangers about four inches too high.  So if you are wondering why I placed it so high, that is the reason.  I was not about to take it back down to correct it.  I was ripping my poor old muscles, and tearing apart my shoulder sockets as it was, and I sure enough was not going to do it over.  Besides that, I was a bit fearful of dropping the thing and have it crash into pieces.  I figured that I could probably repair it with duct tape if such would happen, but I was just not so sure it would look quite as good.     Personally, I kinda like it.  Especially when I visualize all of the woodwork in place.  The problem is, Darlene WILL NOT!!!  And . . . probably never speak to me again.  Normally that would not bother me, but then I got to thinking that maybe she might not make me any more chocolate chip cookies either if I leave this color up, and worse yet, probably never get into the hot tub with me.  So, I will more than likely have to succumb to her desire for these walls, and just have to let go of my wonderful idea of having red.  At least I have the pictures so I can come back and visit what it could have been like if I had had it MY WAY!!!  



So, now it is off to the woodshop.  As most of you know, I am NOT a carpenter, but I do know a good one who will be helping me.  At least I will be praying for Him to do so.

I AM a painter, so painting is no problem.  As you can see by the dining room above, a pretty good one too.

There is a ton of woodwork to do, and this will take some time.  Not only in thinking through the designs, but then creating them, which will be no small task.  There is base board, crown molding, pilasters, and raised panel wainscot.  I also intend to construct some kind of wood creation on the fireplace in the family room area (seen to the right).

This must all be accomplished before anything else can be done.


Molding can become a very expensive item if you use very much of it, and I plan to use plenty.  I decided to buy a router, and make my own, even though I have never done anything like this before.  These machines are not cheap, but I figure I will end up saving a ton of money by making my own.  

After much shopping, I found a Craftsman set at Sears that was on sale.  A really great setup.  It has both a "fixed base" which mounts to a table for shaping edges of boards, and a "plunge base", which is used to put designs in the surface of a board.  To do everything, you need both.  In the above photo, the motor is in the fixed base, and the plunge base lies next to it.  The motor is switched back and forth between the two bases.  You will notice a bit already mounted on the motor.

  Naturally, I had no idea which bit does what, and these things, when bought individually, can run twenty dollars a piece, and UP.  I found a 50 piece set on eBay for a great price of about $70 (shown above).  

The first thing I had to learn about the machine was how to turn it on.  

The next thing was to learn which bits did what, and which ones could be used in conjunction with each other.  So, I cut a bunch of samples (some shown above).  It really is quite a tool. Here are some samples from which I will choose a raised panel configuration.


My woodshop continues to grow, day by day.  It is now like wall to wall table top.  I added a table in front of the table saw to replace the saw horse I was using to feed the saw.  I will also design and construct a better fence guide than what I have been using.  Most of what I have done thus far has required accurate cuts, but not like what I am getting ready to do.  Being off even a 32nd can show up like a sore thumb with this stuff.  Particularly with the raised wainscot. I also had to make a router table, and that took some thinking.  It does not look like it would, but believe me, it did.  I could have bought a table, but that would have cost over a hundred dollars, and I sure did not need to spend that much.  Besides, what I have made is better than what I would have been able to buy anyway.  It is in the foreground of the above picture.  You will see the guide fence on it, being held in place with finger clamps.

Incidentally, I have made ALL of these tables from out of the 2 x 4's that I took from out of the walls when I removed them, and other materials that I have had on hand.  The only thing I have had to buy was a couple of sheets of masonite at about $8 a sheet.  Masonite is very smooth and slippery, and really wonderful in sliding a board for cutting.  

  This is the top layer of a sandwich type table top which is higher than the screws which mount the fixed base, so the screws will not interfere with the smooth gliding passed the bit. This is underneath the table, where the motor goes into the fixed base.  Over that is a three quarter inch particle board for table top support, then an eighth inch thick piece of paneling that I took from the family room wall when I tore that out.  What the fixed base mounted on had to be thin, or the bit would not reach the surface.  The paneling was not going to be strong enough to keep the bit from wobbling, so I added pieces of metal, which gave it all the support it needed.  This table works really good.  The fence is held by finger clamps, which remove quickly for fast adjusting.  When cutting with a router, you must take only about an eighth of an inch off at a time, or the bit will break, so there are several passes that must be made with each forming of a piece, and therefore much moving of the fence is required.  

Well, that's it for now.  When I get some woodwork up, I will add to this page, and let you know when I have done so.












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